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Skincare Retinoids Cheat Sheet

Retinoids ~ Types, Strength, & What They’re Actually Known For

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This cheat sheet breaks down the main types of retinoids you’ll see in skincare, how strong they are relative to each other, and why some are better suited for beginners while others are prescription-only.

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Use this as a reference when:

  • You see “retinol” on a label but aren’t sure what that means

  • You want to formulate your own products with a retinoid

  • You’re comparing OTC vs prescription products

  • You want results without wrecking your skin

How Retinoids Work

Most retinoids must convert in the skin to retinoic acid to work.
The fewer conversion steps…the stronger (and more irritating) the retinoid can be.

Retinoid Reference List (from gentlest -to- strongest)

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Retinyl Esters

(Retinyl Palmitate, Retinyl Acetate, Retinyl Propionate)

  • Most gentle retinoids

  • Very stable

  • Require multiple conversion steps

  • Best for beginners or sensitive skin

  • Lower irritation, slower visible results

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Retinol

  • The most common OTC retinoid

  • Well-researched and effective when formulated properly

  • Requires conversion in the skin

  • Stability and delivery matter a lot

  • Can irritate if overused or poorly paired

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Encapsulated Retinol

  • Retinol delivered slowly over time

  • Helps reduce irritation and improve tolerance

  • Often better for consistent use

  • Allows for better results without overwhelming skin

 

Retinal (Retinaldehyde)

  • One conversion step closer to retinoic acid than retinol

  • More potent than retinol

  • Faster visible results

  • Higher irritation potential

  • Best for experienced retinoid users

 

Tretinoin (Retinoic Acid)

  • Prescription-only

  • Already in active form - no conversion needed

  • Very effective, very irritating for many people

  • Requires medical guidance

  • Not cosmetic-formulation friendly

 

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR / Granactive Retinoid)

  • A retinoic acid ester

  • Often marketed as “less irritating”

  • Still debated in research

  • Common in newer formulations

What Actually Matters with Retinoids (More Than Strength)

 

Retinoid performance depends on:

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  • Form (retinol vs retinal vs ester)

  • Delivery (encapsulation, time-release)

  • Pairing (hydration, niacinamide, soothing agents)

  • Tolerance-building over time

 

**More aggressive does not equal better long-term results.

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Where We Use Retinoids in Serum Maker

 

At Serum Maker, retinoids are chosen for:

  • Stability

  • Skin tolerance

  • Thoughtful pairing (hydration + niacinamide)

 

The goal isn’t to shock - it’s to signal without stress.​

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In the Serum Maker Neck Cream Course we make a killer neck cream using Retinyl Pamitate and other ingredients that are in a $260.00 neck cream.  You can order the ingredients and make it tomorrow.  I’ll show you how!

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Inside the courses, we break down:

  • Which retinoid to start with

  • When (and if) to move up

  • How to formulate for results without irritation

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You'll make a cream with powerful active ingredients and NEVER throw your money away on luxury brands again!

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(It’s easy!  If you can make cookies, you can make this cream!)

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