Hyaluronic Acid  - What Does it Do? (and Why Most Products Get It Wrong)​

Hyaluronic acid might be the most talked-about skincare ingredient of the last decade - and perhaps the most misunderstood.

It’s in almost every serum, cream, and toner. It’s marketed as anti-aging, plumping, and wrinkle-filling. And yet, most people using it aren’t actually getting the results they expect.

Let’s fix that.

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What Hyaluronic Acid Actually Does

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a humectant - meaning its job is to attract and hold onto water.

One molecule of hyaluronic acid can bind up to 1,000 times its weight in water. That’s impressive - but only if it’s formulated correctly.

 

Here’s what HA does well:

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• Hydrates the skin

• Improves surface plumpness

• Supports barrier function

• Reduces the appearance of fine lines caused by dehydration

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And here’s what it does not do:

• It does not stimulate collagen

• It does not permanently fill wrinkles

• It does not replace active treatments like retinoids or peptides

 

Hyaluronic acid is foundational - not transformational.

 

Why Most Hyaluronic Acid Products Disappoint

If hyaluronic acid is so effective, why do so many products feel… underwhelming?

Because most retail formulas follow what I call The 1% Rule.

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The 1% Rule

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Skincare brands can highlight an ingredient on the label even if it’s used at less than 1% — often far less.

That means:

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• The ingredient sounds impressive

• The formula looks good on paper

• But the concentration isn’t high enough to do much of anything

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Many “Hyaluronic Acid Serums” contain:

• Trace amounts of HA

• Heavy thickeners to fake hydration

• Silicones or film-formers that feel plumping, but wash away

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The result? Temporary slip. No lasting hydration strategy.

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High Molecular Weight -vs- Low Molecular Weight

Not all hyaluronic acid behaves the same way. One of the biggest differences between high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is texture and behavior in the formula, not just penetration.

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High Molecular Weight (HMW)

High molecular weight hyaluronic acid has a larger molecular structure, which means it stays closer to the surface of the skin.

What it does:

• Sits on top of the skin

• Forms a breathable, hydrating film

• Helps reduce trans-epidermal water loss

• Creates immediate surface plumpness

How it feels:

• Naturally gels in water

• Adds slip, cushion, and viscosity

• Creates that smooth, serum-like texture people associate with hydration

 

This is why many products feel good instantly - HMW Hyaluronic Acid is doing its job on the surface.

 

Low Molecular Weight (LMW)

Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is broken down into smaller fragments, allowing it to move more freely within the skin.

What it does:

• Penetrates more deeply

• Supports longer-term hydration

• Helps skin hold onto moisture below the surface

How it feels:

• Does not gel on its own

• Feels watery or lightweight in a formula

• Needs supporting ingredients for body and slip

 

LMW Hyaluronic Acid is working beneath the surface — not creating texture, but creating function

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Why the Difference Matters

Many retail products rely heavily on high molecular weight HA because it:

• Improves texture instantly

• Thickens formulas cheaply

• Creates fast, visible results

But without low molecular weight HA, hydration often stays surface-level.

 

The most effective formulas use both:

• HMW for immediate plumpness and barrier support

• LMW for deeper, longer-lasting hydration

 

Many retail products don’t disclose this distinction at all.

When you formulate yourself, you control it.

 

 

Why Environment Matters More Than You Think

Here’s something most brands won’t tell you:

 

Hyaluronic acid needs water to work.ccIn dry environments, HA can actually pull moisture from your skin instead of the air — leaving you tighter, not plumper.

 

That’s why formulation matters:

• Supporting humectants

• Occlusives to seal hydration

• Proper percentages

 

HA alone isn’t enough.

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The Right Way to Use Hyaluronic Acid

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Hyaluronic acid works best when:

• It’s used at an effective concentration

• Molecular weights are chosen intentionally

• It’s paired with barrier-supporting ingredients

• It’s sealed with a cream or oil

 

This is where DIY formulation changes everything.

 

Why Making Your Own Changes the Game

 

When you make your own hyaluronic acid serum, you:

• Choose the molecular weight

• Control the concentration

• Skip fillers and unnecessary additives

• Adjust texture and feel

• Actually understand what’s on your skin

 

And you don’t need a lab to do it.

That’s exactly what I teach in Serum Maker.

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​​If you want to learn:

• How much hyaluronic acid actually works

• How to formulate for real hydration (not marketing claims)

• How to build serums that outperform expensive retail products

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Take a Serum Maker course today and make your own hyaluronic acid serum that plumps and hydrates.